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| A still from Dirk Braeckman for the A.F.VANDEVORST Autumn / Winter 2013 show invitation. |
*Below is the official Dirk Braeckman + A.F.VANDEVORST film collaboration text followed by the official collection text I created for the A.F.VANDEVORST Autumn / Winter 2013 collection.
A.F.VANDEVORST +
Dirk Braeckman
Autumn / Winter 2013
A.F. Vandevorst designers An Vandevorst, and Filip Arickx
present their collection for Autumn / Winter 2013 through a new format.
Refreshing the regular structure of the runway, the collection is presented
through something truer to the brand identity: an interactive symbiosis between
art, fashion, film, and photography, expanding into a greater interaction with
a larger audience.
As a prelude to the collection, Belgian photographer and
director, Dirk Braeckman has created a six-minute film with contemporary dancer
and choreographer, Lisbeth Gruwez, as both the director and designers share a
non-linear vision shown through a richness and variety of tones of grey.
Aside from a comparable use with color as seen through a
grey filter, A.F. Vandevorst dress their dancer in their visualization of a
traditional Bulgarian animal headpiece. Costuming the contemporary
choreographer gives an illusion of being undercover while adding disorder of
boundaries with a completely covered face, losing conception of where the front
is in comparison to the back; further drawing upon the like confusion the
director creates: front and back, and up
and down as illustrated in his work with film.
After distilling the DNA of the designers and the director,
a dropped curtain will give way to a more familiar format of a collection being
presented in Paris; all the while exposed to an audience left standing in
wonder.
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| A still from the Dirk Braeckman + A.F.VANDEVORST Autumn / Winter 2013 film collaboration.
A.F.VANDEVORST
Autumn / Winter 2013
After radiating the beauty of the Belle Époque, last
seasons’ love, and inner joy in dressing now gives way to new measurements,
draping and volumes for Autumn / Winter 2013.
Inspired by Maria Dueñas’ The Time in Between, the tale of a young classically trained
couturier living in 1930s Madrid who seeks refuge in Morocco from political
conflict bringing turmoil to her native Spanish soil; she eventually returns to
her homeland, doubling in espionage and transmitting messages by sewing them
into false seams in fictitious patterns. Like Dueñas’ leading lady, the A.F.
Vandevorst explorer knows that there is another world waiting for her, and that
perhaps fortune favors the brave. An
expat, she parts from her varied past to find an unpredictable future, and
uncover uncertain dreams, while still tailored but prepared for strife.
Abandoning her hats under which she once hid, she is guarded on her excursion
by long locks and bangs veiling her face to create an almost faceless silhouette.
Beneath her disguise, modesty is once again imposed and she
is concealed in infiltrating shades of grey and covered in prints of oversized
paisleys. Beneath forest green paisley back-belted military inspired taffeta
and jacquard jackets lay matching high-waisted pencil skirts in washed wool,
elongating the outline. Plum peplum and taffeta bustier tops are paired with
wool jacquard paisley print pants with military pockets. Long black taffeta
evening gowns are layered with more masculine grey taffeta pants, and cotton
jacquard short-sleeved shirting.
All the while, the wanderer remains warm for winter beneath
oversized knit wool coats, airy oversized knit sweaters and is sheltered in
pearl grey Carpathian lamb shearling scarves and vests. However, exaggerated in
volumes, she treads a lightly traced track in boots enveloping her ankles and
confining her feet, making her movement more prim and feminine.
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